|
|
 |
Over the past several years, the reliability of vehicle charging systems has
certainly improved. However, if you own an older vehicle, sooner or later a
warning light on your dashboard is going to tell you that the alternator has
failed.
Alternators seldom experience a total failure, but the relatively low cost of
completely re-conditioned units has virtually eliminated any need for the
do-it-yourselfer to try to repair an alternator - they are simply replaced.
Starting in the early 1960s, alternators began to replace generators as the
standard means of charging your vehicle's battery. Like generators,
alternators are belt driven from the crankshaft pulley of the engine. Today,
two basic types of drive belts are used: The V-belt and the serpentine
(ribbed) belt. The V-belt belt design predominated up to the late 1980s.
Today, most vehicles use a ribbed, serpentine belt. Since
serpentine-belt-driven alternators vary substantially in how the belt is held
in "tension," replacement techniques vary quite a bit. This DIY article will
concentrate only on the older, V-belt driven systems.
When replacing the alternator, you will need to decide between purchasing a
new alternator from your vehicle's dealership or buying a rebuilt unit from an
auto parts store. The cost difference is substantial, so weigh the pluses and
minuses before you buy.
|
| Setup
Park your vehicle inside or outside in a well-lighted, well-ventilated, level
area. Locate the alternator under the hood in the engine compartment. Here are
some hints:
-
The alternator is always belt-driven off the front of the engine, even on
transverse-engine, front-wheel-drive vehicles.
-
The alternator has electrical wires running to it.
-
Most alternators are made of aluminum.
-
Most alternators have a small, built-in fan visible behind the belt pulley.
Check the owner's manual for more information. In many cases, you'll find a
diagram of the engine compartment with the alternator identified.
Once you have located your vehicle's alternator, carefully note how it is
attached to the engine. There should be two points where the alternator is
bolted to the engine - one which allows the alternator to swivel or swing in
order to vary the tension on the V-belt, the other, usually a curved bracket
with a long slotted hole in it, that limits the amount of swivel and locks the
alternator in place.
Make sure that you can reach these bolts with either socket or combination
wrenches. In many cases you must use two wrenches - one on each side of the
bolt - in order to loosen it. If the bolts/nuts appear to be corroded, test
your ability to free them.
|
|
